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Market stalls, corner cafés and the dish worth crossing town for
Based in Barrio Italia, Santiago.
Anaïs moved from Lyon to Santiago eight years ago and now shops La Vega Central most mornings, learning which stall has the best palta and where the pastel de choclo is made to order. She writes about the city's cafés, seafood counters at Mercado Central and the small Barrio Italia kitchens that never make a guidebook.

Viña Undurraga sells its tours by the clock, runs no restaurant on the estate and turns away anyone under 14. The lunches, cellars and detours that fill out the rest of a Maipo day all sit off the estate.

Santiago drinks its first coffee standing up in five minutes and its last one sitting down for two hours. How to eat and drink both ends of the day, with 2026 prices.

Wet tiles at La Vega before eleven, a Ñuñoa street feria at half past eight: this is where Santiago buys its food, with the days, hours and prices.

A slow, street-by-street plan for Barrio Italia: the courtyard bistros, the wine lists, the design arcades and the one tasting menu worth booking weeks out.

A morning walk across the Mapocho that takes in Chile's biggest produce market, a Mapuche kitchen, the country's best empanada counter and a seafood hall full of touts, with prices, opening days and where to actually sit down.

Chile's oldest wine valley sits close enough to Santiago for a single day out — but which of its twelve estates you pick decides whether you get a coach-tour blur or a memorable glass.
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