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Back roads, calas and Dalt Vila
Based in Ibiza Town, Spain.
Bram cycles Ibiza's back roads between Dalt Vila, the northern villages and the salt-flat coves most visitors skip. He writes about the island off-season, from church-square markets to the calas you can reach without a car.

The fortress above Dalt Vila reopened as a Parador in March 2026, and the summit terraces are now a free walk.

The water is flat and shallow, four islets sit within paddling distance but you cannot land on any of them, and the west coast starts shutting for the winter from the middle of the month.

A shallow bay on the west coast, with fishermen's boathouses, grills on the sand and two coves to head for when July fills the main stretch.

The Sunday market comes to 25 stalls, the church above the square was built in 1720, and the beaches, clay baths and farm kitchens all sit within 11 km of it.

The closest sand to Ibiza Town has 3,000 Punic tombs on the hill above it, an undeveloped headland walk at one end and a pier for the Formentera boat.

The bay faces east, with a Punic cave shrine on the slope above it, a dark lighthouse at the end of the cliff path, and fish kitchens that buy from the cove's only fisherman.

Market days at Las Dalias, a square by the 1785 church now closed to cars, dark sand at Cala Boix and a flat coast path that ends at a 1763 watchtower.

What Es Canar is on market Wednesdays and what it is on the other six days: the Punta Arabí stalls, the coastal path south, the ferry jetty and the tables worth booking.

A sheltered horseshoe bay on Ibiza's east coast. There is a mirador on the cliff above it, the coast path runs 7 km to Cala Olivera, and the island's only golf course is five minutes inland.

A calm walk around Cala Jondal and the coast either side of it, past the free pebbles, Rafa Zafra's beach shack and the Phoenician walls at Sa Caleta.

An 1861 lighthouse, 428 berths, a starred tasting menu and a €2.60 boat to the old town, all strung along one promenade in Ibiza Town.

The salt pans are still worked, two beaches lie below them and the parish of Sant Jordi sits inland. Each stop has its own booking rules.

How to reach the cove without circling for a parking space, and where to hire a board once you are there. Plus the kitchens still serving after the lifeguards go home.

What a chartered Formentera day in October actually involves: the crossing, the seagrass rules, which lunch tables are still open, and whether the whole-boat price is worth it.

A full-day private sail south from Ibiza in October 2026, with the anchorages, the tender you must insist on, the lunch minimums, and the days the ferry beats the boat.

The island's interior is a worked forest of pine and sabina, and this is how to walk it with someone who can name what you are standing in, and bottle what you cut.

The low islet in front of Es Vedrà is the one you actually photograph. Where to stand, swim, eat and sail for it in September 2026, now that the old clifftop path is shut.

Three operators run boats out of Ibiza Town after dark and back again before 02:00, which leaves room to build a calm late-season evening around them.

Ibiza's figs come off the branch in late summer. Here is where to buy them, where to walk among the trees and where to eat them, from a Saturday field market to a Michelin-starred tasting menu.

The island gets quiet again in October: the sea is still warm, the ramparts are empty, the museums keep shorter hours and a few doors shut on 31 October.

What the night meter costs, which rank still has cars at five in the morning, and why a group of six should stop thinking in taxis.

Fourteen venues close within a fortnight in October 2026. The dates, the door policies, the prices, and which nights suit your group.

Before the beach clubs open and the excursion boats fill up, Ibiza's fishing guilds are still landing the actual catch. Here's where to see it, on foot, for free.

How to rent a bareboat in Ibiza with no licence and spend a day moving between quiet coves, a golden-hour anchorage off Es Vedrà, and three seafood stops worth planning around.

Long before the clubs open, Ibiza's inland villages and pine-backed north coast run on a completely different clock — this is the honest guide to that other island.

A calm, walk-and-drive guide to watching the sun drop behind Ibiza's strangest landmark — where to stand, where to eat, and which legends actually hold up.

Long before the island had a nightlife reputation, it had salt — and the flats that made it are still the quietest, strangest, most rewarding corner of Ibiza to spend a slow day in.

Long before the superclubs, this was sacred ground — a slow, walkable journey through the Phoenician, Punic, Roman and Moorish island most visitors never notice.

A calm, walkable guide to the island's hidden coves, honest fish lunches and quiet swims — the Ibiza that has nothing to do with the clubs.
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