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From the boyoz oven to the raki table
Based in Izmir, Republic of Turkiye.
Izmir food writer on breakfast boyoz, Kemeralti esnaf lokantas and Aegean olive-oil mezes.

From the Saat Kulesi to Kemeraltı’s spice lanes and the Konak Pier ferry deck, Konak is Izmir at its busiest, oldest and most useful.

A steep old Jewish neighbourhood of stone stairs, Sephardic memory and a free 1907 elevator that still buys the best panorama in İzmir.

Across the bay from Konak, Karşıyaka is İzmir with its shoes off: a lived-in waterfront district of ferry horns, fish dinners, bazaar noise and a west-facing promenade that empties the city into the evening light.

On Izmir's northern shore, Bostanlı trades big-city bustle for a west-facing sunset terrace, a serious Wednesday market and long, unhurried meals by the water.

Eight kilometres inland from the Kordon, Bornova trades waterfront polish for student noise, family grills, fasıl meyhanes and the city’s richest pocket of Levantine history.

From sunset beer runs on the Kordon to rakı tables behind Kıbrıs Şehitleri, Alsancak is Izmir’s most social address and its most dependable base.
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