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Old Delhi, one kebab at a time
Based in Delhi, India.
Delhi food writer walking Shahjahanabad's galis — the pre-dawn nihari counters, century-old jalebi kadhais and the stuffed parathas of Chandni Chowk.

A loud, cheap, gloriously unpolished slice of central Delhi where the Main Bazaar, station-side hotels and old traveller lore still run the show.

A walk through Shahjahanabad is a lesson in appetite, noise and survival: Mughal monuments, lane-by-lane bazaars and the kind of food that has outlived every attempt at tidiness.

A walk through Delhi’s most atmospheric collision of medieval stone, lake sunsets, rooftop bars and couture ateliers.

A walk through Delhi’s polished South Delhi grids, from viral chaat and serious cocktails to wedding sarees, leafy lanes and the kind of markets locals actually use.

Delhi’s great roundabout is still the capital’s most useful base: part arcade, part transit node, part old-school food crawl, with enough grit under the polish to feel properly alive.

A walk through the capital’s ceremonial core, where embassies, museums and five-star hotels sit under a canopy of trees and a very particular hush.
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