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Gumbo, markets, and the cooks behind the counter
Based in New Orleans, Louisiana, United States.
Ines trained in Lisbon kitchens before moving to New Orleans to cook gumbo and trace the Creole-Portuguese overlaps in the city's seafood cooking. She reviews everything from the Vietnamese markets of New Orleans East to old-guard Creole dining rooms and the muffuletta counters of the French Quarter.

A street-level account of the French Market: where the beignet queue breaks, which end of the sheds is worth your money, and what to eat when you get there.

Three days at Funk Fest on the New Orleans riverfront, and the lunches, late sets and sit-down dinners that fit around the gate times.

Chilled museums, twenty-dollar pool passes, twenty-five-cent martinis and the finest shaved ice in the city: how to plan a New Orleans day around the worst of the heat.
Fourteen verified stops — fried classics, gravy-soaked debris, and chef-driven riffs — mapped for a reader eating across New Orleans in 2026.
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