Inês Carvalho
Rialto market prices, cicchetti and who still cooks their own
Based in Castello, Venice.
Inês shops the Rialto pescheria three mornings a week and has spent four years working out which bacari still make their cicchetti in-house rather than buying them in frozen. She writes about Castello's lunch counters, the Sant'Erasmo growers who supply them, and why a plate of moeche costs €14 in one campo and €22 two bridges away.
Latest stories
A November cicchetti walk across Venice's Ponte Chiodo
Cannaregio's cicchetti counters sit minutes from Ponte Chiodo, and the closing days decide the route. I say which ones I'd stand at and which to book before a November walk.
The 06:30 shift at Venice's Rialto fish market
The Pescaria trades Tuesday to Saturday from 06:30, and every bar and shop I rate around it keeps its own hours.
Venice's Fish Market Comes Alive Before the City Wakes
Between 7am and 9am, the Rialto stalls, bacari, and one back-alley trattoria run on the market's own clock, hours before the day-trippers show up.
Six O'Clock in Venice: The City's Real Dinner Table Is a Bar
Skip the tired canal-side restaurant and eat the way Venetians do — standing at a bacaro with a €3 cicchetto and a €2.50 glass of wine in hand.
Every story is signed and dated, and follows our editorial standards.