Inês Quaresma
Ridge roads, laurel forest and the slow way round
Based in San Sebastián de La Gomera.
Inês moved from Lisbon to San Sebastián in 2019 after a decade writing about Atlantic island travel, and has walked most of the GR-132 and the Garajonay trail network in sections, in both winter mist and August heat. She writes about Agulo and the Mirador de Abrante, the silbo gomero whistled language still taught in island schools, and the ferry-and-hire-car arithmetic that decides whether a three-day break works at all.
Latest stories
Catching the 50-minute ferry from Tenerife to La Gomera
Two companies cross to La Gomera from the same quay at Los Cristianos, and only one of them runs the early boat. Which one you book decides how long you need to allow and what a day ashore gets you.
Laguna Grande, La Gomera's clearing in the laurel forest
From one dirt car park at 1,250m you can reach fifteen basalt stones, a 900m loop into the moss and a 10km trail to the island's highest point.
El Cedro, the hamlet inside La Gomera's laurel forest
Six kilometres of laurisilva lead to one restaurant, a waterfall and a handful of rooms at 750 m inside Garajonay National Park, and I go through how to arrange each of them.
Walking La Gomera's Garajonay National Park and its rim villages
Forty-five minutes through laurel forest gets you to the island's highest ground. The viewpoints along the GM-2 cost nothing, and the park's western rim does a fixed vegetarian lunch.
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