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The city before the postcard cropped it
Based in Spaccanapoli, Naples.
She walks the length of Spaccanapoli and the quieter cloisters most guidebooks skip, then pairs each sight with the practical detail that gets you in without the crowd. Her day-trip pieces reach out to the Campi Flegrei craters and the Herculaneum ruins that Pompeii tends to overshadow.

Winter entry to Pompeii is named and capped, and the gate shuts early, so the ticket is something to settle before you leave Naples. The short day still leaves an afternoon for a second site nearby.

The crib figures on one Naples alley are still modelled by hand. What they cost, and which days are closed in December 2026.

In November the hydrofoils thin to four sailings a day, and that timetable sets the order you walk the island: the Marina Grande funicular first, the Monte Solaro chairlift later.

Three coast towns, a sea cave and a lemon farm in one run out of Naples, with the door prices, the climbs and the opening hours that decide what order you do them in.

What you actually see inside the MANN, how long it takes, which rooms are shut this autumn, and the free gallery three minutes from its door.

A measured walking route through the Centro Storico built around November's low sun, with the hours, the ticket prices and the one room where the camera has to stay in the bag.

Spaccanapoli runs razor-straight through the old Greek grid, still dividing Naples into a devout, gilded east and a loud, working-class west: a guide to walking both sides properly in 2026.

A field guide to timing the three big Vesuvius sites against the coach-tour crowds, plus the sites the excursions skip entirely.

Naples treats its pizza less as a dish than as an inheritance — here is how to eat your way honestly through the craft, from the Tribunali shrines to the fried-dough counters and the new-wave dining rooms.
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