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Paris by the plate and the market stall
Based in Paris (Belleville).
Leïla grew up between Beirut and the 20th arrondissement and now trails the city's markets, neighbourhood bistros and Levantine bakeries. She writes about where Parisians actually eat on a Tuesday, from Marché d'Aligre to the natural-wine cavistes of Belleville.
The newest 4 of 5 stories.

The Clos Montmartre opens its gates from 7 to 11 October 2026, and half a million people come up the hill to eat, drink and follow the parade — here is how to work the week without queuing for everything.

Which bistros stay open through the annual closure weeks, which rooms hold 14C in a heatwave, and how to plan a day that works around the crowds.

From the antique galleries of Saint-Ouen to the cash-only bargain tables of Vanves, a practical, honestly priced guide to hunting Paris's flea markets like the dealers do.

A stall-by-stall walk through Paris's markets, covered halls and food streets — with the prices, opening days and group realities nobody tells you before you arrive hungry.
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