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The city past the hotel zone
Based in Cancún, Quintana Roo, Mexico.
Maja moved from Malmö to Quintana Roo in 2013 and has spent the years since mapping the parts of Cancún that sit off Boulevard Kukulcán — El Centro's plazas, the Puerto Juárez ferries, the ruins at El Rey and the cenotes an hour inland. She times routes on the R1 and R2 buses herself rather than repeating what the hotels hand out.

What it should cost to reach your hotel from Cancún airport, and which ride to book before you land. The arrivals hall is the worst place to make that decision.

The ride out of Cancún airport costs around double if you sort it at the counter instead of before you fly. The coach, the train, a private van and a shared seat each suit a different arrival time and party size.

Playa Delfines has the CANCÚN letters, a clifftop lookout and a beach you often can't swim at. When to turn up for the photo, and where to swim instead.

Your hotel's kilometre marker decides whether you walk to the clubs or ride there, and whether the sea out front is flat or full of surf. Which stretch suits your first trip comes down to which of those matters more to you.

You can reach Chichen Itza from Cancun on your own train ticket, and the hours after the gates shut are enough for Valladolid or for a pyramid you can still climb.

What a half-day of cenote swimming and turtle snorkeling out of Cancun costs at the gate, and the hour you need to be in the water.

Cancun's 2026 sargassum landed by compass direction, which is why the bay-side sand and the Playa Norte ferry are worth planning a day around, and much of the rest of the coast is not.

A low-season plan for Cancun built around the storm hour: the one beach with no resort behind it, and the markets, palapas and underground cenotes that hold up when it pours.

Two hours at the wheel of a two-seater boat, through the mangrove channels of Laguna Nichupté and out to the shallow coral at Punta Nizuc, with the marinas, prices and rules in the order you meet them.

A 2010s Cancun corridor with a free cycle path down its length, Yucatecan botana plates, live-fire cooking and one small hotel.

Free jungle trails from 06:00, a Maya house museum, two stadiums across the avenue and where to eat and sleep within walking distance.

Where to eat, what to see and how late the music runs on downtown Cancún's main avenue.

Maya ruins, kite flats, a bonefish fishery and the seafood palapas of the Punta Sam road, planned in the order you drive them.

The north end of Cancun has a Maya port ruin, a Blue Flag beach, two ferry piers and the seafood road that runs between them.

Cancún's oldest market still trades for residents. Around it are the city's first church and its coach terminal, and the tacos run until 2 a.m.

Breakfast under the ceiba trees, tacos at 9 p.m. and mezcal until 2 a.m.: the downtown Cancun avenue where the city eats.

Xcaret is open from 08:30 to 22:30 and has more than 50 attractions, and for four evenings in late October the Festival de Tradiciones de Vida y Muerte takes over the Gran Tlachco.

Octopus out in the open, coral that fluoresces under blue light, and the one stretch of water near Cancun that really does glow: how to book the city's after-dark reef properly in 2026.

Cancun's Hotel Zone was a working Maya port long before it was a beach strip, and four of its archaeological sites are still standing between the hotels. This is how to walk them, what they cost, and when to go.

From May to October the Caribbean side of Cancun fills with brown weed while beaches six kilometres away stay glassy. Here is how to read the coast day by day and still get in the water.

Half a day inland from the Caribbean and the beach holiday becomes a geology story. These are the sinkholes worth the early alarm, with gate prices, opening hours and the honest truth about which ones fill up.

A straight account of chartering a 55-foot yacht in Cancún: which marina to leave from, what the day really runs to, and when it is worth the money.
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