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Ragù that took a Sunday, sfogliatella that took a queue
Based in Rione Sanità, Naples.
She works the Pignasecca stalls at opening and the trattorie of the Sanità at lunch, tracking which kitchens still make the slow ragù and which have quietly changed hands. She judges a sfogliatella by the shatter of the crust, not the price on the till.

A walk down the three-metre lane that splits old Naples, counter by counter, with the hours, the prices and what to book before you fly.

How the city's daily coffee ritual works, bar by bar, from the grand cafés of the centro to the quiet counters of Vomero.

Vesuvius isn't Naples' day trip — it's the soil under the wine, the rock under the streets, and the thing the whole city has quietly organised its life around for two thousand years.
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