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Banana leaf before noon
Based in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Suresh grew up over his family's kopitiam in Brickfields and now eats his way through KL's hawker centres, mamak stalls and wet markets for a living. He can tell you which Jalan Alor stall fires up its wok first and why the char kway teow tastes different after 10pm.

Four hours in the evening, Chow Kit to the Saloma Link by way of Kampung Baru, stopping more than 15 times for Malay, Indian and Arab cooking.

A Saturday treasure hunt through Kuala Lumpur's antique trade, from a 4am thieves' market to the last crockery shop of the kopitiam era, and it is all over by lunch.

When the sun drops over Kuala Lumpur, a month-long circuit of pop-up bazaars turns entire streets into open kitchens — here is exactly which ones to hit, when, and what a plate should cost.
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