Thijs Molenaar
Istanbul on foot, hill by hill
Based in Balat, Istanbul.
Thijs moved from Rotterdam to Istanbul fifteen years ago and has walked every slope from Balat's timber houses to the cisterns beneath Sultanahmet. He writes the itineraries that get first-time visitors past the Grand Bazaar crowds and into the Fener backstreets.
Latest stories
Getting Inside Istanbul's Blue Mosque in November 2026
Entry is free and 30 to 45 minutes covers the inside, but the three fixed visiting windows a day are what you plan a Sultanahmet morning around.
Both Shores of Istanbul's Bosphorus in October 2026
A full day on the strait: the 10:35 ferry up to Anadolu Kavağı, plus the palaces, fortresses, art houses and tea gardens on either bank, priced and timed for October 2026.
Walking Istiklal Street from Tünel to Taksim in October
In October 2026, walk the 1.4km of Istanbul's Istiklal Caddesi, with the passages, churches and museums that sit just off it.
Bus Tours of Istanbul's Sultanahmet Without the Queues
What a sightseeing bus is actually good for in Sultanahmet, where the queues really form, and which four stops deserve a whole day.
Both of Istanbul's Continents in a Single Bosphorus Afternoon
The state ferry puts you on the Asian shore for small change, which leaves you two decisions: which palace you queue for, and where you sit down with the view.
Five Centuries of Steam and Small Talk in Istanbul's Hamams
Which of Istanbul's working bathhouses are worth booking, and what happens to you once you are on the hot stone. In some the ritual is still a social event rather than a spa treatment.
The Fishermen Who Still Land Istanbul's Catch at Dawn
Before the tour buses start moving, Kumkapı's boats are already unloading the day's fish onto wet cobblestones, and this is the honest way to follow that catch across the city.
Istanbul's Stacked Concert Week, August 17–21, 2026
A culture editor's rundown of five real nights of live music across Istanbul this week, from Harbiye's open-air stage to Beyoğlu's basement clubs, with what to know before you commit to any of them.
One August Night, Twelve Istanbul Stages
On August 15, 2026, Istanbul's live music scene stops overlapping and starts colliding — a culture editor's guide to twelve real shows, from an island songwriter's set to a full arena for Modern Talking's Thomas Anders.
The Vapur Hour: Aboard Istanbul's Bosphorus Ferries
Skip the tourist traps and ride the working ferries — a walking-and-sailing guide to crossing Istanbul the way the city itself does, from the commuter double-deckers to the full-day boat up the strait.
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