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The long way round any city
Based in Chicago, via Rotterdam.
Bram moved from Rotterdam to a Logan Square walk-up after years reporting on European port cities, and he still reads Chicago through its architecture and its lakefront. He plans days the slow way, pairing a Riverwalk boat tour with an afternoon in a neighbourhood most visitors never leave the Loop to find.

Rashid Johnson's retrospective is the big Chicago show this winter, and it runs long. Plenty more is on around it, some of it coming down in early January and some of it free.

Malt Row's taprooms, an 1883 timber church, a restored prairie and the one hotel bed anywhere nearby, plus the hours and booking rules that set the order you walk them in.

Two big restorations run through 2026, and this is what stays open in Pullman: the clock tower, Hotel Florence and the smokehouses.

Where to start on Chicago's 26th Street, what to eat along it, and which doors will be locked when you get there.

A slab of the Berlin Wall, Louis Sullivan's last commission and a rooftop sausage grill are all within a few blocks of one car-free plaza on Chicago's North Side.

A 197-acre park with pedal swans, two steel flags 59 feet high, and the only museum in the United States devoted year-round to Puerto Rican art: you can walk the lot in a day.

Half a day walking up Halsted, from the rainbow pylons to the lakefront harbour, then a long night of show tunes, line-dance lessons and bars that hold a 4 a.m. licence.

Swedish breakfasts, a 1934 tavern, 350 acres of cemetery and 30 plays in 60 minutes, in the order you would walk them up Clark Street.

The stretch from the river bridge to the Drake, taken in order: a 1,000ft deck, a wall of stones from everywhere, deep dish, and the two museums a block off the avenue.

The walk from the 1869 Water Tower to the end of Navy Pier, and what to eat and book along it.

Tours of a 1914 ballpark, a landmark block of 40 doors, Graceland's architects and the bars on Clark Street, with the 2026 prices, hours and booking rules that decide what order you do them in.

In Uptown you can hear jazz until 5 a.m., eat Beijing duck, count 349 bird species and read Chicago's architecture for free.

The arch dates from 1975, the dim sum still comes on trolleys along Wentworth Avenue, and there is a pagoda on the water; the opening days decide the order you walk it in.

Thirteen free blocks from DuSable Bridge to Oak Street, and the handful of stops along them that need booking before you fly.

What still works in the park, what has been switched off for winter, and the hour when Cloud Gate gives you a clean reflection.

The fireworks are over and the ice rink hasn't arrived yet, which makes October the one stretch when Navy Pier behaves like a normal piece of lakefront.

The original 1943 deep-dish kitchen is still a working restaurant on Ohio Street. An honest afternoon there works around the bake: the rivals are a short walk, the museums are on the same block.

Chicago's 158-year-old zoo has never charged admission, and the greenbelt around it (market, beach, bird sanctuary, architects' cemetery) costs nothing either. Here is how locals actually use it.

The architecture cruises, the bridge-lift mornings and the Riverwalk bars all peak in late September, and several of them close within weeks, so the order you do things in matters.

What a first trip to Chicago should look like in the month of clear light, closed streets and free buildings, with the indoor fallbacks ready before you need them.

Halloween 2026 falls on a Saturday in Chicago, which packs a free Halsted parade, a 1921 movie palace, an aquarium after closing and Día de Muertos in Pilsen into one weekend.

Around 200 buildings open free of charge on 17 and 18 October 2026. Here is how to walk three of Chicago's districts properly instead of chasing the whole list.

Doja Cat plays the United Center on Saturday 3 October 2026. The show runs two hours; what makes the airfare worth it is the weekend around it, where to eat, where to sleep and how to move.

Two days of parks, museums, boats and observation decks strung along Lake Michigan, in the order that actually walks, with 2026 opening dates, prices and the bookings you cannot leave to chance.

Sixteen Chicago rooms sit behind trapdoors, laundromats and takeout counters. Which of them poured through Prohibition, which take groups, and how to walk them in one night.

A four-day plan for the 11 October 2026 race: where to sleep for the shortest walk to the corrals, when to face the expo, what to eat, and how to see the city without spending a single mile on it.

A night-owl's route through the storefront theatres, dive-bar mics and after-hours club slots where Chicago's comics actually work, with prices, door rules and closing times.

From a bronze pillar on a fire academy lawn to the glass prototype of the modern skyscraper, this is the ten-year rebuild that made Chicago the city it is.

Second City taught the world how to improvise; six decades later, Chicago is still the city where you can watch it happen live, or learn to do it yourself.

Deep-dish gets the postcards, tavern-style gets the weeknight loyalty — a route through both camps of Chicago's oldest food argument, no side-picking required.

A half-day-by-half-day guide to the Depression dogs, char-dog rivals, late-night stands, and the flagship that still tells the story of Chicago's most defended dish.

A measured, half-day-by-half-day route through the city that built the first skyscraper — from the river that explains everything to Wright's suburbs and two houses that changed the world.
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