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Where Munich actually eats
Based in Munich, Germany.
Chiara moved from Bologna to cook in Munich and now spends her mornings at the Viktualienmarkt stalls and her evenings in the city's Wirtshäuser. She can point you to the last honest Weisswurst breakfast and the Schwabing trattoria that isn't just filling tables with tourists.

Dates, prices and the order to walk Munich's winter markets, including the 138 stalls on Marienplatz and a lake steamer parked on a railway bridge.

Before the tour groups descend, Munich's 140-stall market belongs to a 5:30am coffee ritual, a standing-room doughnut queue, and the families who've run its counters for generations.
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