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Bologna, plate by plate
Based in Bologna, Italy.
Bologna food writer on hand-rolled sfoglia, two-hour ragu and the mortadella counters of the Quadrilatero.

Six hundred metres of porticoes, pubs and politics west of Piazza San Francesco, Via del Pratello is where Bologna drinks late, eats cheaply and keeps its counter-culture history in plain sight.

From Via Zamboni to Piazza Verdi, Bologna’s Zona Universitaria is where the city turns young, cheap and gloriously lived-in, with centuries of scholarship beside spritzes, jazz and ragù.

A quieter, greener Bologna unfolds west of the old gate, where Via Saragozza climbs toward San Luca under the longest covered walkway in the world.

A walk through Bologna’s most cinematic neighbourhood, where the Seven Churches, old porticoes, wine bars and gelato counters turn a simple piazza into an evening ritual.

Behind Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s Roman grid still trades in mortadella, tortellini and Lambrusco, then turns into the city’s most convivial open-air bar by dusk.

North of Bologna Centrale, Bolognina trades postcard polish for rail-side realism, serious eating and a neighbourhood life that still feels lived in rather than staged.
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