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Seven places in and around Bologna teach the sfoglia, and the Quadrilatero counters tell you whether yours came out right.

The loggia at Palazzo della Mercanzia is free, open to the street, and worth about ten minutes on its own; a short walk nearby is what makes it legible.

Bologna's mill canal surfaces for one short run behind the houses, and the free window that frames it takes five minutes of patience at the wrong hour.

Europe's largest brick church is free to walk into, its floor carries the world's biggest indoor sundial, and the best delis in Bologna are ninety seconds away.

What Bologna's main square is really like in October, and how to spend a day there without paying for a view that no longer exists.

The tallest one is shut, the crooked one is in a steel corset, and the family feud behind both is still legible three streets in every direction. Here is how to read the towers in 2026.

Beneath Bologna's porticoes runs the silk-trade canal network the city spent a century burying, and this is where it still surfaces, above ground and below.

Nine centuries after rival families built brick towers to outrank each other, only one of Bologna's original skyscrapers can still be climbed. Here's the full vertical history, tower by tower.

Beyond the towers and the tortellini, Bologna's murals, co-op supermarkets and self-managed social centres still carry the political identity that earned it the name La Rossa.

A walking guide to the only city on earth built to be crossed dry — from the pilgrim's climb to San Luca to the working-class arches most visitors never reach.

A local writer's honest, plate-by-plate guide to eating in Bologna la Grassa — from the city's most obsessive ragù to a 1465 wine tavern where you bring your own dinner.

The porticoes get the postcards, but the real Bologna is out on the plain — where Parmigiano is formed at dawn, balsamic ages for a quarter-century in attic barrels, and the ragù is finally worth the drive.

Ten tours that actually earn their fee — from a 7am producer run through Parmigiano country to a backstreet crescione crawl — honestly ranked for couples, groups and cooks.

Six hundred metres of porticoes, pubs and politics west of Piazza San Francesco, Via del Pratello is where Bologna drinks late, eats cheaply and keeps its counter-culture history in plain sight.

From Via Zamboni to Piazza Verdi, Bologna’s Zona Universitaria is where the city turns young, cheap and gloriously lived-in, with centuries of scholarship beside spritzes, jazz and ragù.

A quieter, greener Bologna unfolds west of the old gate, where Via Saragozza climbs toward San Luca under the longest covered walkway in the world.

A walk through Bologna’s most cinematic neighbourhood, where the Seven Churches, old porticoes, wine bars and gelato counters turn a simple piazza into an evening ritual.

Behind Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s Roman grid still trades in mortadella, tortellini and Lambrusco, then turns into the city’s most convivial open-air bar by dusk.

North of Bologna Centrale, Bolognina trades postcard polish for rail-side realism, serious eating and a neighbourhood life that still feels lived in rather than staged.