Inês Almeida
One city, four quarters
Based in Jerusalem, Israel.
Inês has led walking routes through all four quarters of the Old City and out to Ein Karem and the Mount of Olives for fifteen years. She writes about pacing a first visit — when to book the Western Wall tunnels, which Nachlaot lanes to get lost in, and how to fit Yad Vashem in without wrecking the rest of the day.
Latest stories
Jerusalem's Temple Mount in the Morning Window
Non-Muslims can enter the gold-domed esplanade in only two short windows a day, and how long you queue at the Western Wall decides whether you make the first one.
Walking Jerusalem's Armenian Quarter in Half a Day
Most of the Old City's quietest quarter is free to walk; what needs timing is a 30-minute cathedral window and a ramparts walk that shuts before vespers begins.
Finding the quiet hours at Jerusalem's Western Wall
Sunrise and the Friday hour before Shabbat are when to be on the plaza, and the tunnels underneath need booking ahead. Prices, rules and timings for an Old City morning.
Inside the Tower of David Museum in Old Jerusalem
The citadel just inside Jaffa Gate is the one museum that arranges Jerusalem in your head before you walk into it. Here is how to time it, what to skip, and what the climb is really like.
Circling Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock in Half a Morning
Non-Muslims can't go inside the Dome of the Rock, but you can stand beside it. Here is the gate to use, the two narrow windows, the dress code and the rooftops that show you the gold.
Walking Jerusalem Through the Shabbat Quiet
Twenty-five quiet hours in Jerusalem, walked properly: when to stand at the Kotel, which synagogue can take a whole group, and what actually opens on Saturday.
Walking Jerusalem's Old City Quarter by Quarter
A half day on foot inside the walls: what to book before you fly, what costs nothing, and the hours and dress rules that decide whether you get in.
The Tram That Crosses Jerusalem's Fault Line
Jerusalem's only light rail line runs the length of the city's oldest arguments in under an hour, and riding it end to end is the calmest, cheapest way to actually see the whole place.
The Garden Where Mandate Jerusalem Argued Over Coffee
A walled garden behind an ophthalmologist's clinic once gathered the painters, poets and officials who shaped Mandate-era Jerusalem — and the houses, bars, cafés and archives nearby still trace that circle today.
One Square Kilometre, Four Worlds: Walking Jerusalem's Old City Quarters
A calm, hour-by-hour guide to walking the Old City's Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian quarters — with honest door policies, prayer-time realities and what actually suits couples versus groups in 2026.
The Shared Stone: Inside Jerusalem's Holy Sepulchre and the City's Oldest Contest
A calm, early-rising walk through the holiest few hundred metres on earth — where six denominations, three faiths and three thousand years share the same worn limestone, and how to see it with respect and good timing.
Jerusalem From Above: The Rooftops That Explain the City
Ten terraces, bars and café roofs — from a ₪5 Old City parapet to a Waldorf cocktail deck — and exactly how to time, book and read each one.
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