97 city guides · 2,845 stories, new content daily
The city read plate by plate
Based in Sant'Ambrogio, Florence.
Lorenzo grew up above his family's trattoria near the Sant'Ambrogio market and cooked in Florentine kitchens before writing full-time. He covers the city one dish at a time, from the tripe carts at Porta Romana to the natural-wine rooms of San Frediano.

Santa Croce's chalets trade for five weeks and shut on 20 December, and the rest of the Florence December calendar runs on single dates you have to diarise.

Nine to 10 Tuscan tastings and four wines over three and a half hours in the Oltrarno, with the counters and wine windows you pass on the same streets.

What a day of Chianti cellars in an open vehicle covers, which estates take small parties, and what it costs at the door rather than on a tour.

The workshops, ateliers and stores where Florence leather is cut, stitched and burnished while you watch, with the prices, the door policies and what the stalls are actually selling.

Florence in July turns hostile by eleven. An hour-by-hour plan for the day, the rooms that are genuinely cold, and where the city goes when the centre becomes unbearable.

Dawn markets, a six-euro tripe panino and vegetable cooking with a Michelin star: the Florence meals that have nothing to do with bistecca.
Every story is signed and dated, and follows our editorial standards.