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Walking Shanghai's lanes, one lilong at a time
Based in Shanghai (Hongkou).
She moved to Shanghai to research 1930s Art Deco buildings and now spends her days walking the lilong lanes of Tianzifang and the old Jewish quarter in Hongkou. She builds three-day itineraries that pair a headline sight with the quieter block sitting right behind it.

A private car day on the Bund: the stone promenade is free, the bank lobby dates from 1923, Yu Garden sits inland, and a 14th-floor terrace looks over the Huangpu.

Four paid decks, two free viewpoints and a 45-minute sailing in Lujiazui, with the prices, hours and queues for each.

Entry is free and you can walk in. The star bronzes have moved across the river to Pudong, and while a special exhibition is on, the reservation rule is back.

A straight, stop-by-stop read on Shanghai's one-kilometre neon shopping mile: what is worth your time between People's Square and the Bund, and what to skip.

What ¥180 actually buys at 562 metres above Lujiazui, and how the lifts, the queues and the passport rule work.

One district on the far end of Line 11 holds a century of Chinese driving: museum sedans, a Grand Prix circuit, a kart track and a robotaxi that pulls over with nobody at the wheel.

Six musicians in their eighties still play Glenn Miller nightly on the Bund — the living thread that runs from Jazz Age Shanghai to the city's restless present, and the nine rooms where you can hear it.

A calm, honest walking guide to the shikumen lane neighbourhoods that made Shanghai — from the sanitised showpieces to the lanes where people still hang out their laundry as you pass.
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