Matteo Vaccari
Ragù cooked properly, and where to find it
Based in Bologna, Italy.
He grew up watching the sfogline roll tortellini in the Quadrilatero and judges a trattoria by whether its ragù has been left to cook long enough. He maps the city by its counters, from the stalls of the Mercato delle Erbe to the salumerie along Via Pescherie Vecchie.
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