Rafael Ortega
Seville's Mudéjar and Moorish thread
Based in Seville, Spain.
Seville culture writer on the Alcázar's Mudéjar courtyards, Triana's ceramic workshops and the flamenco peñas.
Latest stories
Triana, Seville: the river barrio with a stubborn soul
Across the Guadalquivir, Triana keeps Seville's flamenco, ceramics and riverfront life alive in a neighbourhood that still feels gloriously local.
Santa Cruz, Seville: The Old Quarter That Still Smells of Orange Blossom
A walk through Seville’s most famous barrio, where the Alcázar walls, cathedral bells and old tapas bars still set the pace.
La Macarena, Seville: walls, devotion and everyday tapas
A walk through Seville’s northern old town, where Almohad walls, a beloved Virgin and cheap vermut still shape daily life.
El Arenal, Seville: bullring shadows, sherry hours and the old riverfront
A walk through Seville’s most self-possessed old-quarter, where the Maestranza, the Torre del Oro and a handful of family taverns still set the tempo.
Centro & Alfalfa, Seville: the city at full volume
A walk through Seville’s working core, where shopping streets, tiled bars and late-night tapas spill from the Cathedral’s shadow to the Alfalfa lanes.
Alameda de Hércules, Seville: the city’s late-night, bohemian heart
From Roman columns to drag clubs and sherry bars, Alameda de Hércules is Seville at its most lived-in, loud and gloriously unpolished.
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