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El Hierro's cliff viewpoints, crater walks and lava pools are mostly free and close to Valverde. Two of them you have to book ahead, and there are places where you should stay out of the water.

Five hotel rooms on a lava flow, 17th-century salt pans, three lava pools and a 5.5 km coast path, with the phone numbers you need before you go.

Thatched lava cottages and two sea pools at the bottom of a stepped descent on El Hierro's north coast, with a cement Neptune watching the water.

On El Hierro's north coast, a near-circular lagoon punched into an old lava flow is the whole point of Tamaduste — and the start of a string of fishing hamlets that swim rather than entertain.

At 900 metres on the Meseta de Nisdafe, El Hierro's highest village trades beaches for cloud, cattle fields, three honest kitchens and a sacred tree that drinks the fog.

Spain's forgotten zero meridian, a juniper forest bent double by the Atlantic, and one restaurant that depends entirely on what the boats bring in.

On El Hierro's southern third — a Canary pine ridge, a fishing port with world-class diving, and a lighthouse standing where the maps used to end.

At the end of El Hierro's last road, a 650-strong fishing village trades hotels and nightlife for grilled limpets, 20-metre visibility and the quietest harbour in the country.

A collapsed volcano flank left El Hierro with a nine-kilometre amphitheatre of banana terraces, lava pools and one four-room hotel — this is how to read it.

A capital at 600 metres with no coastline, a Saturday market that's gone by two, and the island's only real concentration of kitchens, shops and late bars — all within a twenty-minute walk.