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The green lagoon at El Golfo is free, and you look down at it from the clifftop. Time a November morning around it, then eat in the village afterwards.

The coach route, the one ranger-led walk inside the restricted park, and the free craters you can climb on your own. Tickets and timings decide the order you do them in.

The coves inside Los Ajaches are busiest while the launches are anchored off them. That leaves two clear windows in the day, and four quieter beaches behind the gate.

Lanzarote's surf capital is a scatter of white houses on unpaved streets beneath the Risco de Famara — six kilometres of Atlantic sand, no high-rises, and a village that runs on swell rather than a resort clock.

Lanzarote's original capital trades 300 market stalls and a brass band on Sunday for six days of shuttered calm — here's how to read it, eat it and stay in it.

At the dry southern tip of Lanzarote, a former fishing hamlet has grown into the island's calmest resort town — and still lands octopus a few metres from the sun loungers.

A planned 1980s seaside town where no building outgrows a palm tree, the trade wind runs the beach schedule and one Manrique-styled square holds the whole evening.

From a 194-person hamlet called Tiñosa to Lanzarote's busiest resort — harbour seafood, volcanic reef diving and the loudest promenade on the island, all walkable in an afternoon.

Two pirate-era forts, a lagoon full of fishing boats and €4 tapas — why Lanzarote's working capital deserves more than a coach stop.