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The toe is free to touch, it sits at knee height, and everything worth pairing with it is within a few minutes of the Golden Gate.

Croatia's Blue Lagoon is free to swim and 14 NM from Split by boat. In October the water still holds up after the kitchens on the shore have closed.

Diocletian's own tomb became the church of the martyr he killed, and the 57m tower beside it is open again. This guide covers what the ticket buys, when to go and whether the climb earns the queue.

The Roman precinct is free, the interiors are not, and in October the whole thing is yours for two hours at either end of the day. Those two hours are the ones to plan around.

The Golden Horn is an hour's boat ride from the city, and its tip swings round with the wind, so the hour you stand on it decides most of what you get.

Split's terrace culture predates most of Europe's ultras groups and grew out of the city's working-class, anti-fascist past. Here is how to see it properly, from Poljud to the third-half bars, without turning it into a spectacle.

When the cruise crowds clear the Riva by evening, Split hands itself over to rakija cellars, a Roman-arch tavern, and a beach club that runs till dawn. Here's how to spend the two days that belong to the city, not the day trip.

A single-day route through Split's market stalls, fish trattorias, wine bars and konobas, built around exactly what the Adriatic and the Dalmatian hinterland put on the table each morning.

From an 8am espresso at Lvxor to a bottle-service table at Central, here's how to read Split's marble promenade the way locals actually walk it.

How to walk Split's pine-forested hill — its cliff hermitages, hidden beaches, sculptor's villa and summit café — the way locals actually do it.

From the €6 public ferry to a crewed yacht that costs more per day than most people's holiday — how to island-hop out of Split without wasting a single morning on the wrong boat.

A walk through Split’s old fishermen’s quarter, where steep lanes, family konobas and Marjan’s first steps keep the pace stubbornly local.

A local, low-key Split quarter where the stadium, the sea and Marjan forest meet, Spinut is the city with its shoes off: practical, green and quietly proud of itself.

A crooked, lived-in slice of Split where the palace gives way to family lanes, konobas, and a June street feast that still belongs to locals.

A slow, sea-facing stretch under Marjan hill where sculptor’s villas, pebble coves and sunset walks beat the Old Town crush every time.

A lived-in Split neighbourhood of fortress walls, market mornings and residential calm, Gripe is where you come for the museum, the shopping and a quieter night’s sleep.

Split’s Old Town is not a preserved ruin but a lived-in Roman palace, where the day starts with cathedral bells, ends with wine glasses on limestone, and rewards anyone who slips one lane off the main drag.

Split’s sandy city beach is a rare mix of shallow water, heritage picigin and a club strip that runs long after the Old Town has gone quiet.