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Where to stand for a cathedral view that works: the Deutz steps, the KölnTriangle deck, the cable car and the rooftops with a chair, plus prices, seasons and door rules.

The riverside museum on the Rheinauhafen tempers, moulds and wraps its own chocolate every working day, and the city around it has the workshops, confiserien and Veedel counters to match.

Sixteen bars on one fifteen-minute stretch of Cologne's South City. Door rules, group limits and closing times, pub by pub.

Three hundred years after Johann Maria Farina first bottled Eau de Cologne, the streets where he and his imitators worked still smell like the invention — and you can walk through nearly all of them in an afternoon.

How Cologne's brewery halls actually work — the köbes, the small glass, the beer mat that stops the round, and which houses suit a group versus a couple.

A room-by-room, door-policy-honest route through the Roman fragments still standing, sunk, and load-bearing under Cologne's modern streets in 2026.

Kölsch is not so much ordered as administered — here is how the ritual works, and the Cologne houses where it is poured best, whether you are two at the bar or twenty at a long table.

A calm, practical field guide to Cologne's carnival week in February 2026 — which square, brauhaus, parade or gala actually suits your group, and how to survive the crowds.

Past the twin spires lies one of Germany's densest concentrations of serious art — the museums, member associations, blue-chip dealers and one-room off-spaces worth planning a trip around.

A calm, practical walk through Cologne's brauhäuser — the ritual of the endless 0.2-litre Stange, and exactly where to sit, book and behave.