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A paid permit is now required for the last stretch to Teide's summit, and the slots go fast. You can still book one if you know when new places appear, and there are other walks for when they have gone.

Pools heated to 25°C, pilot whales off the south coast and a cable car that stops when the wind gets up at the summit, with prices, closed days and where to sleep.

Tenerife's pilgrimage town trades resort polish for black-sand coves, a fishermen's-association kitchen and the island's first Christian sanctuary — half a day to see it, longer to understand it.

Three centuries after lava buried its harbour, Tenerife's old main port is a walkable, unhurried town where you swim in the rock that destroyed it.

Five minutes from Tenerife South Airport, a scruffy, sail-stippled beach town trades resort polish for trade wind, volcanic sand and the best fish on this stretch of coast.

Six hundred metres of basalt, a marina full of whale boats and a harbour ring of tapas bars — how Tenerife's quietest west-coast resort built its whole character around a cliff.

A UNESCO old town five minutes from the airport, where a 15th-century street plan, volcanic-stone churches and a few hundred metres of student bars share the same dead-straight lanes.

Container cranes, a Calatrava concert hall and a market that closes before lunch — a street-level guide to the one part of Tenerife where Canarians set the pace.

Tenerife's first tourist town is still a working fishing port with a 17th-century fort at one end of its seafront, a César Manrique lido at the other, and some of the island's best cooking in between.

A fishing port welded to a purpose-built resort — one flat seafront walk linking La Gomera ferries, pilot whales, a Michelin-starred dining room and 300 metres of nightclubs.

A thirteen-course tasting menu upstairs from a Blue Flag beach, a shark tank you fall through at 80km/h, and a fishing village serving butterflied wreckfish five minutes up the coast — inside Tenerife's most polished resort strip.